Polishing Metal Wheels

Here’s a quick explanation of different wheel finishes and what metal polishes are best suited for them.

Aluminum: Aluminum is a relatively soft metal and its one of the easier metals to polish and get a bright shine. Aluminum oxidation shows up as a white chalky coating over the metal. To keep polished aluminum wheels looking good, you have to polish them regularly with a metal polish for uncoated metals. This may be a multi-step process, depending on how long it’s been since you last polished your wheels. The Wolfgang Metallwerk Aluminum Polishes offer you a complete series of metal polishes for bare aluminum.

Anodized Aluminum: Anodizing increases the thickness of the aluminum oxide layer to strengthen the underlying aluminum’s natural resistance to corrosion. The resulting finish is very porous and is therefore usually sealed or dyed. Many metal polishes cannot be used on anodized aluminum because they would damage the unique finish. Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer is one of the few that can be used with excellent results.

Chrome: Chrome is actually a plated metal. Chromium, the metal used in chrome-plating, is highly resistant to tarnish and retains a reflective shine better than any other metal. Eventually, chrome can rust so it’s best to remove any minor rust spots before they turn into a major problem. Again, Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer is a great choice as is Mothers Chrome Polish.

Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is another metal that is highly resistant to corrosion, staining, spotting, and rust. But, like anything else, maintenance is needed to keep it looking sharp. We recommend Wolfgang MetallWerk Fine Aluminum Polish. Though it says aluminum, it is safe and effective on stainless steel. The only noticeable difference is that it will not create a black residue as you polish, like it would on aluminum. Another excellent metal polish is Wenol Red to polish out oxidation and stains on stainless steel.

Read Autogeek’s Metal Polishing How-To for more tips and step-by-step instructions.

The Difference Between Carnauba Waxes and Paint Sealants: Part 2

Paint Sealants

Paint sealants are kind of the anti-carnauba. They last a lot longer, they are easy to apply, and there’s nothing natural about them. This is surface science at its best.

A paint sealant is made of polymers, which are composed of tens of thousands of synthetic particles that are linked together. When a sealant bonds to your vehicle’s paint, it forms a glossy surface coating. It is not the warm carnauba that seems to melt into the paint. Paint sealants sit on top of the paint like a transparent chain metal suit. They are glossy and slick, but carnauba lovers will tell you they do not have the warmth and depth of a carnauba.

Paint sealants have gotten progressively more popular as time goes on. Some people really love the hard-as-glass look. In an industry that is driven by technology, it seems appropriate that an engineered paint protector is the new favorite among many detailers.

However, the real selling point of a paint sealant is the durability. A premium paint sealant can last 4 to 6 months, sometimes longer. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, for example, can last up to 12 months. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 lasts the more typical 4 to 6 months. By “last”, I mean that water will continue to bead and the paint will remain protected from UV rays and contamination. For people that spend more time driving than detailing, the paint sealant is the way to go.

Paint sealants are extremely easy to apply. They are always in liquid form and they spread easily by hand or with a polisher. This time-saving feature makes paint sealants an attractive choice for those who like instant gratification, and who doesn’t?

Note: While a carnauba waxes have polymers and manmade additives, they are different from a paint sealant because paint sealants are not made from natural waxes at all.

As you’ve seen, there are a lot of differences between paint sealants and natural carnauba waxes. Glassy, hard shell or deep, liquid shine? Six months or six weeks? These are the basic questions you have to answer before selecting your paint protection.

However, a growing number of enthusiasts simply refuse to choose. Instead, they coat their vehicles with a layer of sealant for long-lasting protection and then top it with a layer of carnauba for the dazzling shine. Even if you forget to reapply carnauba in 6 weeks, your paint won’t suffer. The Forum Favorite Kit will give a prime example of the shine you can get from a sealant topped with a carnauba. It’s the perfect marriage of beauty and longevity!

Remember, paint protection is one of your vehicle’s basic necessities. No matter what kind of product you choose, Autogeek.net has your vehicle covered.

The Difference Between Waxes and Paint Sealants: Part 1

Paint protectants are divided into two general categories: carnauba waxes or synthetic paint sealants. Here you’ll find information on each so you can choose the paint protection that’s right for you.

Carnauba Waxes

Carnauba wax is the preferred car wax of collectors and concours enthusiasts because it creates a rich, warm glow. It doesn’t appear to sit on the paint. It transforms the paint into a deep, liquid pool that shimmers under changing light conditions. The more carnauba wax, the more shine.

The wax is produced by the Brazilian Tree of Life, a palm tree, in order to coat its leaves. The wax provides protection from the sweltering sun and it sheds water so it falls onto the ground and is absorbed by the tree’s roots. If you think back to junior high science class, you might remember that plants release oxygen through their leaves. For this reason, carnauba wax is breathable. Good for the tree and good for your paint.

Carnauba is rock hard in its natural form. When the leaves of the Tree of Life are harvested, the wax flakes off as the leaves dry out, or they are put into a machine that removes the wax. It comes off in hard flakes. Car wax makers have to blend the wax with oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent called naptha (commonly used to thin wood varnishes and paints) in order to make the wax workable. The very best carnauba-based car wax is only about 1/3 natural carnauba. It’s probably for the best since the price gets higher and higher as the concentration of carnauba rises. When a product advertises pure carnauba car wax or 100% carnauba car wax, they are referring to the purity of the carnauba that is in the product, not the product as a whole.

That brings us to grading. Carnauba is harvested and then graded according to color, purity, and where it was grown. Trees grown in the northern area of Brazil produce the highest grade carnauba. The yellow wax is the most pure and therefore receives the highest grade. This is the grade most commonly used in high end car waxes and in the pharmaceutical industry as a pill coating (The process is quite different. Obviously, a car wax should never be ingested.).

Some manufacturers refine the yellow wax again into an ultra-pure white wax to ensure that the wax produces the clearest, most reflective gloss once applied to the paint. Such is the case with Pinnacle Souveran and Pinnacle Signature Series II.

As you’ve already read, carnauba protects the leaves of a palm tree from the intense heat and humidity experienced in Brazil. The carnauba car wax repels water and, consequently, most contaminants. When applied to any surface, carnauba retains these characteristics. Therefore, an application of a carnauba-based car wax to your vehicle will protect it from UV rays, heat, moisture, oxidation, and environmental contamination. And it looks like a million bucks!

The drawback of carnauba waxes, if you can call it a drawback, is that it does not last as long as a synthetic sealant. An average carnauba car wax finish will wear off in approximately 6 to 8 weeks (longevity varies by formula). It depends heavily on the climate in which you live and whether or not your vehicle is garaged. Daily commutes in a hot, humid climate mean a shorter life span for your carnauba wax coat. If you enjoy regular waxing, then the life span of a carnauba wax is just one more reason to indulge in your favorite hobby!

In a nutshell, carnauba car wax is the wax of enthusiasts. It appeals to people who want the absolute most stunning show car shine available and are willing to spend a couple of hours every month or so to get it. Most of them will tell you it is time well spent.

Spring Detailing

Now that May is nearly here, it’s safe to do your first Spring detail (if you haven’t already). Here’s a quick guide to rehabbing the paint after a long, cold winter.

  1. Clean wheels and tires using a water-based wheel/tire cleaner. A water-based formula is safe on all wheels. Use a soft brush on the wheel face and a stiffer brush on the rubber. Be sure to use a long brush to clean the wheel wells. Mud and road salt have no doubt accumulated there. Rinse well and dry the wheels to avoid water spots.
  2. Wash your vehicle, of course! Remove any road salt residue, dirt, and debris using a high lubricity car wash and a soft, clean wash mitt. Hose off the undercarriage to remove any salt or debris that has splashed on the underside of the vehicle. Dry the vehicle using a clean waffle weave towel, chamois, or a Metro Vac N Blo or Master Blaster.
  3. Clean up rubber trim using an exterior cleaner. Before applying a fresh coat of rubber protectant, it’s a good idea to remove the old dressing along with any dirt and oils.
  4. Now you can inspect the finish. There are likely quite a few water spots, swirls, and possibly some etching from a few months without a proper detail. The best way to remove them is with a polisher and a great set of swirl removers. One combination that has worked well for us is the FLEX XC 3401 VRG Orbital Polisher and Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 and Wolfgang Finishing Polish 3.0. Read our complete polishing guide for tips and suggested products.
  5. Polish metal surfaces to clean and brighten them. Flitz Metal Polish contains a protectant as well, so its an excellent one-step product for all metals.
  6. Apply a wax or paint sealant. The sun is more intense in the Spring and Summer so prepare your paint with good UV protection.
  7. Apply a quality rubber protectant to exterior trim and tires. Remember, multiple thin coats will bond better to the rubber and provide a more even finish.
  8. Clean auto glass. If needed, use a glass polish to remove any water spots and etching. Once the glass is clean and clear, apply a glass sealant to prevent water spots and maintain the clarity of the glass.
  9. Inside your vehicle, give the carpet and upholstery a thorough vacuuming. Use a carpet cleaner to remove any spots or spills.
  10. Apply an interior protectant to vinyl and plastics, like the dashboard and door panels. The sun coming through the windows can dry out and fade these surfaces.

For detailed instructions and product recommendations, visit our Autogeek University for Auto Detailing Facts, Tips & Tricks.

The Best Way to Remove Old Wax

Some detailers will say that Dawn dish-washing liquid is the best way to remove old car wax or paint sealant. While it is true that it removes paint protection, it’s not the best method. Here we’ll tell you why and what to use instead.

Dish detergent in general has a high pH, meaning it’s alkaline. An alkaline soap, while effective, really dries out surfaces. You know the term “dishpan hands” – that comes from the intense drying effect repeated dish-washing has on your skin. This alkalinity makes Dawn and other soaps like it great dish soaps. They really cut through grease and get dishes clean. BUT that’s not what you want for your vehicle. The rubber and plastic surfaces on the exterior of your vehicle (the soft materials) will dry out and fade with repeated use of dish soap. You might think the occasional wash with dish soap won’t make a big difference and you’d be right, but there are many factors working against those rubber and plastic surfaces. Every day, it’s bombarded by UV rays, accosted by dirt, and then there’s just the natural process of aging that any material undergoes. Add to all that a super-drying wash with an alkaline dish soap and you’re accelerating the aging process of your vehicle’s rubber and plastics. It’s the combined effect of the environment and the occasional shortcuts we take with our cars that make them look older, dingier, and faded long before their time. Always use a car shampoo for your vehicle and leave the dish soap to the dishes.

The best way to remove old layers of wax and paint sealants is a pre-wax cleaner or detailing clay. They’re not going to affect rubber and plastics because you’re not even using them on rubber and plastics! Detailing clay is a mechanical way of removing whatever is on the paint. You’re rubbing the clay bar over the paint and it’s taking in any coating or debris to leave the paint perfectly clean. A pre-wax cleaner or cleansing lotion has chemical cleaners that lift old wax and embedded dirt from the paint. (The cleaners could discolor plastics or rubber but you’re using a pre-wax cleaner only on the paint, whereas a dish soap is going to get on everything.) A pre-wax cleaner can even remove mild oxidation. Your vehicle will actually look and feel better after using a detailing clay or pre-wax cleaner. No dish soap can do that!

New to Detailing?

Visit Autogeek University, our online resource for detailers. Here you?ll find guides on everything from glass cleaning to swirl removal. We explain each process step by step and suggest products to help you get the best results. Plus, you?ll learn tips that will help you succeed. For example, did you know products are easier to apply with a polisher if you mist the pad first with a quick detailer or a pad conditioner? You can also learn how to tell if your aluminum wheels have a coating. Autogeek?s detailing guides provide a wealth of information at your fingertips.

Winterizing Your Car?s Exterior

Car Wax & Paint Sealant Application Techniques

Carnauba Car Wax vs. Paint Sealants

Proper Car Washing & Drying Techniques

How to Use Auto Detailing Clay

Interior Cleaning and Conditioning How-To

How to Care for Leather

Circular/ Rotary Polisher Guide

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide

How to Remove Bugs and Tar

Glass Cleaning Facts & Tips

Proper Care of Trim & Molding

How to Detail Wheels & Tires

How to Polish Metal

How to Care for Your Convertible Top

Klasse Application Guide

How To Care For Microfiber

Headlight Lens Restoration Guide

Engine Detailing How-To

Happy Valentine's Day! Show your vehicle some love!

Yes, it is snowing outside so you’re probably not going to do a full detail, but there are some things you can do to help your car look the best it can given the circumstances.

 

1. If you have access to a garage, you can clean your car. It’s a good idea because road salt is brutal on paint and metal. Use a rinseless wash, like DP Rinseless Wash & Gloss or Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Both require just a gallon or two of water and do not need to be rinsed off. If you use them outside, just make sure the temperature is above freezing!

 

2. Protect rubber weatherstripping. Cold temperatures cause rubber door seals to dry out, crack, and even freeze. You can prevent this with a product like Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick. This product protects the rubber and it also prevents freezing. You’ll like that feature when you need to get into your car and out of the cold.

 

3. For the windshield, use Glass Science Ultra Clean Windshield Wash Concentrate. It cleans the glass and, at higher dilutions, keeps the washer fluid from freezing in the tank.

 

4. Just because it’s a winter wonderland outside your vehicle, that doesn’t mean the inside can’t be clean and cozy. Get some rubber floor mats to protect the carpet. WeatherTech FloorLiners provide great coverage to catch snow and slush. Cover the seats with Sheepskin Seat Covers. They provide a soft, warm place to sit when the world outside is cold and uninviting.

 

Just remember, Spring is right around the corner! There are perfect detailing days ahead.

Instructional Video: learn How To Use The Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher to Polish Your Car To Perfection

 

Click to view Light Swirl Removal Video Click to view Intermediate Swirl Removal Video

Automotive UVS Sun Shades

Types of UVS Sun Shades

Custom UVS Sunshade

The UVS100 ultraviolet heat shield helps reduce heat build-up and completely blocks out the sun. The custom fit (over 400 styles) means a perfect fit—no fumbling and fighting to keep it in place. Simply unfold the heat shield, position it across the inside of your windshield, and lower your visors to hold it in place. It fits snuggly and stays put while the car stays significantly cooler. Interior surfaces remain cool and protected. When it’s time to set out again, remove your heat shield, fold it up accordion-style. I’d advise adding the optional storage bag to your order to keep your heat shield in new condition. In your trunk or back seat it stays neatly protected. If you live in an area that you don’t need it year around, it will be safely waiting for you come next summer.

Buy Here [Read more…]

Meguiar's D103 APC+ and D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream

By popular demand, we are now carrying these two Meguiar’s products! You really can’t beat these values!

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